THE various shades of brown, from ecru and dust-color down to mordore and leaf brown, are preferred this season for traveling Suits instead of the gray dresses that have been in vogue so long. Next to brown in popularity are the grayish-green shades, sage, reseda and mignonette; and there are many new Suits of the stylish ocean tints of grayish-blue. Two shades are generally used in these Suits - a very light shade for the over dress, and an extremely dark one for the skirt beneath, that must come in contact with the street. The darkest shade is used for trimming the lighter garment, and gives it character. A few suits are made entirely of one shade, but they are insipid-looking.
The materials for traveling dresses are those rough-surfaced goods that have the appearance of being worn for service and as semi-dress, yet are so limp and flexible that they drape gracefully, and are therefore stylish. First among these is camel's-hair and its many serge imitations. This is merely bought for the polonaise, which requires four or five yards of this double width goods, which costs from $3 to $6 a yard. The skirt is usually silk, but for long journeys, such as an ocean voyage or the trip to the Pacific, a skirt of the camels-hair is added, and trimmed simply with bias bands of the material, edged perhaps with wool fringe. Next in favor for these lengthy voyages are suits of English water-proof of the deep purplish-blue shade; with buttons of oxidized silver for the only ornament, a polonaise suit of this fabric may be made very effective, and will stand the hard wear of travel better than any material in use. The waterproof cloth costs from $2.50 to $4 a yard; a polonaise made of it is very pretty when worn with a black silk skirt. For brides' traveling dresses the soft coressante cashmere is still very popular, though it is being gradually displaced by more "fuzzy stuffs." Of the latter, de baize is the principle inexpensive fabric. This is soft undressed wool, rough-surfaced, thin enough for the wind to blow through, yet strong, and so clinging that it gives sufficient warmth. It is single width, and costs 50 cents a yard. $10 buys sufficient for a dress, and if made at home the cost of tire entire suit will be from $15 to $20. Bias silk bands of a darker brown, with silk collar, pockets, cuffs, sash, and large button-moulds covered with silk, are the trimming. Velvet instead of silk is much used for trimming traveling dresses, but is too heavy for de baize. These velvet-trimmed dresses will he worn all summer, and velvet skirts will also he stylishly worn until the heat of summer makes them intolerable. Gray mohair, for 50 or 60 cents a. yard, is a durable fabric for traveling suits. Its glazed surface repels dust, and it will not cockle after dampness. For short trips in summer undressed linens the natural color of the flax will be made in suits as formerly, also the deep blue linens that are new this season, and of which we have already spoken. Pure flax linens cost 40 or 50 cents a yard, and are trimmed with flounces, bias bands, and large white buttons, either pearl or imitation ivory. Very little blue linen has been imported; it is found only at the private modistes', and costs $1 a yard. In still thinner batiste the lace-striped goods are chosen for polonaises, and solid grounds for the lower skirts. Exclusive houses show fine batistes that are sold for $2 a yard, but the same patterns are imitated in the coarse goods sold for 25 cents a yard, and this is bringing figured batistes into disfavor. The plain ground finely embroidered in darker brown shades, and the camels-hair or tufted batistes, are very handsome. French embroidered costumes, unmade, shown in boxes, cost from $12 to $25. The embroidery is done by hand in Napoleon blue on the more expensive costumes, while the cheaper ones show many ruffles ornamented with woven Hamburg embroidery in white.
The appropriate mode of making traveling dresses is a very long plain polonaise and single skirt trimmed with bands, facings, and simply gathered flounces, but without heavy pleatings and those elaborate hand-made trimmings that catch dust and are so difficult to cleanse. Two ten-inch flounces gathered, with a band of silk for heading and edging, trim de baize and other woollen skirts prettily. A resada or a brown camel's-hair polonaise may be found ready-made, with silk or velvet trimmings, for $50; if made to order it will cost $75. A suit with brown silk skirt and camel's-hair polonaise, made at the best modistes', costs about $150. These flannel-like suits of camel's-hair are especially appropriate for the sea-side and for mountain excursions. The fronts of polonaises are long enough to touch the bottom of the skirt beneath them. One or two rows of buttons ornament this front, and sometimes there is a wide silk facing or revers, with imitation bound buttonholes placed down the front. The loose-fronted polonaise with a single dart, worn full and without a belt, gives an appearance of embonpoint to the most slender figure. The back consists of two straight sacque-shaped lengths, belted down either- outside or underneath, with much fullness added for. the skirt drapery. There are two new modes of draping this season; the first catches' the skirt up in the middle of the back only, drawing the front open and down in a long point on each side; the second leaves the closed front and sides, plain and square without a wrinkle, and strings are used to tie them back under the bouffant back. A third fashion - not new, but still very popular - drapes the sides high and very far back, while the back breadths hang long and full.
The traveling hat is of chip, brown or gray to match the dress, and is trimmed with two shades of bias silk of the colors used in the costume. The shape is either a Rubens with brim turned up on the side only, or else a Rabegas which is turned up all around. A black chip hat is used when black velvet collar, cuffs, and sash are on the polonaise. The handkerchief veil of grey or very dark green grenadine is universal. The new lingerie for traveling is made of percale, with dark gray, blue, or black lines and bars on white. It comes in little chemisettes, with standing English collar and deep cuffs turned over in points at the corners to match the collar. Plain sets of collar (without chemisette) and cuffs cost 40 cents. Ecru batiste lingerie is also worn with the pretty black taffeta silk suits made especially for traveling and for morning wear on the street.
Long dusters of gray linen, with striped skirts of black and white percale, are the French "overall" snits imported to be put on over a handsome traveling costume and preserve it from soil. The linen duster is merely a very big polonaise with loose double-breasted front, belted back, and cape. This with the percale skirt costs $12. Large plan linen dusters, made like a waterproof cloak, cost $5. The undressed kid gloves worn when traveling are very long, fastened by but one button at the wrist, but with a long closed cuff that moulds itself on the arm. In Russia leather belts the lisse (smooth) leather, either black or dark green, is preferred to the red. They are fastened by silvered clasps before or behind, and have a silvered chatelaine for an umbrella, vinaigrette, etc. The useful chatelaine bag seems to have lost favor merely on account of its popularity. The accessories of traveling toilettes, such as folios for paper, necessaires for sewing materials, dressing-cases, inkstands, drinking cups, and even tiny clocks, are now covered with Russia leather, or else with ecru canvas bound with leather.
LACE SACQUES AND POLONAISES.
Strong. serviceable guipure will be the proper lace this summer, and sacques and polonaises the fashionable lace wraps. The stylish sacque is amply long and loose, or else is slightly shaped to the figure, and has half-flowing sleeves. Young ladies will near sacques that are slashed up the back, but the plain simple shape will be most used. Many sacques have centres of imitation guipure in rose patterns with real lace border; these are very well thought of, because the imitation guipure is all silk and jetty black, differing from real guipure only in being woven instead of hand-made. These sacques, with real borders, cost $33 for the best styles, and other qualities are shown as low as $12. Newer that these, and still handsomer, are the imported sacques made of real guipure insertion sewed in lengthwise stripes, slightly shaped to the figure, and with flowing sleeves. A very pretty one may be bought for $60; thence the price increases to $200. Yak lace or woolen guipure sacques are also shown; they are commended for their durability and pretty designs; some have the square Dolman sleeves, and are fastened by a filigree silver clasp. Llama lace sacques woven in imitation of hand-made thread lace are prettily worn with black dresses, are durable and strong, and are now worn by ladies who a few years ago refused so wear anything less than thread lace. They cost from $12 to $80; the qualities most salable are those costing from $30 to $40. A small llama sacque with slashed back, such as young ladies wear, may be bought for $35, of such admirable quality that it can scarcely be distinguished from real thread. Fine thread lace sacques cost from $60 to $275. Ladies who can afford to have one of these frail and beautiful garments usually purchase a llama or guipure sacque to save their finer ones.
Long belted polonaises with flowing sleeves are shown in guipure lace, costing from $80 to $130; an especially fine one, with insertion stripes, a high standing fraise, an exquisitely wrought lace border, and voluminous back breadths draped in square scarfs and held by a blue sash, costs $450. Plainer Llama polonaises cost from $40 to $100.
Lace points retain their three-cornered shape. The shaded princesse designs in llama and thread lace are very beautiful, but have not met with proper appreciation, and shawls ornamented with these shaded figures are sold now for one-third of their original price. Very beautiful princesse llama shawls now offered for $25 were formerly marked $80. Directions for draping lace points to form stylish mantles were given in the New York Fashions of Bazar No. 20, Vol. VI. Watered ribbon bows look especially well with laces.
Lace scarfs for the neck are usually made of Spanish blonde with polka dot or else a thickly wrought sprig, and fanciful appliqué border in scroll or else leaf pattern. They coat from $8 to $12, and measure from a yard and a half to three yards in length.
Among the latest importations are suits of black grenadine with five lengthwise graduated puffs covering the three front breadths and meeting a narrow flounce at the foot. On the back breadths are four wide straight gathered flounces. The basque is long, and in this instance the silk lining is cut low. Other grenadine basques have thread insertions sewed in the side forms and arranged in Pompadour squares.
Pale blue camel's-hair polonaises for carriage costumes have white vines of embroidery, and are edged with white unbleached yak lace; price $140. Another carriage wrap is a white cashmere mantle with long square fronts; it is lined wish blue silk, has a blue silk hood, and watered ribbon Watteau bow, and the edge is finished with yak insertion and lace: price $90. A third wrap is of tourterelle gray cloth with silk lining and oxidized clasp.
French morning dresses of white nansook have a jacket and demi-train, with the front covered with horizontal tucks and Valenciennes lace. The neck is edged with a high fraise of lace.
To wear with white or black dresses are pink and blue turquoise silks made in vest shape, and trimmed with applique embroidery and Valenciennes lace. Bows of black velvet fasten the front. Price $20. Very full fluffy ruches of white tulle for the neck, with lengthwise jabot bows of pink, green, or blue, cost $3. The plain high tulle ruche is $1 50. Pleated muslin fraises in two standing frills, shaped very high behind and sloped away in front, are edged with Italian Valenciennes, and sold for $1.25.
Imported white repped pique polonaises prettily braided and edged with bullion fringe are sold in boxes, not made up, for $25.
New bustles with arched whalebone frames covered with muslin, and afterward with ruffles edged with lace, cost from $7 to $15.
For information received thanks are due Miss Switzer; Madame Bernheim; and Messrs. A. T. Stewart & Co.; and Arnold, Constable, & Co.